The Patek 5980 is a unique timepiece released in 2006 to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the famed Nautilus collection. It was launched alongside two other iconic and very successful Nautilus models: the Nautilus 5711 and 5712.
More than just another piece to celebrate the success of the Nautilus series, the original Patek 5980 occupies a special place in Patek Philipe’s history. It was the first Nautilus to feature a chronograph complication. The other watches released alongside the Patek 5980 came with complications seen before in earlier watches.
For instance, Ref 5712 had the same complications as the short-lived Ref 3712, released a few years earlier. However, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980 was the first Nautilus timepiece to include a chronograph function. The new watch launched the Caliber CH 28-520 chronograph movement, which was subsequently adopted in several other models. This cutting-edge and newly upgraded automatic chronograph mechanism was built entirely in-house by Patek.
In addition to this high-tech chronograph movement, the Patek 5980 was also renowned for its impressive design. Many enthusiasts and connoisseurs consider the Patek 5980 to be the most masculine watch in the Nautilus series.
Since launching the first version in 2006, Patek has continued to iterate and improve on the design of the 5980 while staying true to the design philosophy behind the OG Nautilus. In this post, we’ll explore the various unique variants of the Patek 5980, providing an overview of each one and discussing their most impressive attributes.
Full Stainless Steel 5980/1R-001 With an Integrated Bracelet
The original 5980 was released in 2006 as a full stainless steel timepiece with an integrated bracelet. This was a 40mm watch with a design that retained most of the aesthetics of the original Nautilus.
However, despite Patek’s attempt to preserve most of the proportions and overall shape of the Nautilus, the addition of a chronograph complication meant the casing of this timepiece had to be thicker than that of its contemporaries. It came at a thickness of 12.6mm, roughly 4mm thicker than the ref. 5711, which was released the same year. While the middle case managed to retain a slim profile, the height difference was more noticeable in the ref. 5980’s bezel.
Patek released two dial configurations for this stainless steel watch as well. The blue variant came first, while the black dial example was released soon after. The dial had the iconic embossed pattern that has become the signature of the Nautilus line of watches. The date aperture was on the 3 o’clock marker, while its single sundial for the chronograph function was at the 6 o’clock marker. The stainless steel ref. 5980 has since been discontinued by Patek. This timepiece was replaced by the ref. 5990, featuring a second time-zone display.
Full Rose Gold 5980/1R-001 With an Integrated Bracelet
Patek introduced a full Rose Gold version of the Ref 5980 in 2013. Both versions were built exactly the same, except for the casing and bracelet, which were made entirely from rose gold instead of stainless steel like the original.
Like its stainless steel counterpart, this timepiece was available in only blue and black colors. The dial had the same iconic embossed pattern that has become the signature of the Nautilus line of watches.
The rose gold variant remained in production for longer compared to the stainless steel. However, it was discontinued in 2024, along with the leather strap and two-toned variants.
Two-tone steel And Rose Gold 5980/1AR-001 With An Integrated Bracelet
The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1R-001 is a stunning evolution of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980. It was released in 2013 at the same time as the solid gold variant. This timepiece had the same iconic design as the original, with the major difference being the two-tone design, which gave it quite a striking appearance.
The casing of this timepiece was made of stainless steel, while the smooth bezel was made from rose gold. The integrated bracelet also featured a mix of rose gold and stainless steel components. The center link was made from 18k rose gold, but this is flanked on both sides by stainless steel links.
The Ref 5980/1AR-001 exudes a sense of luxury and sportiness thanks to its two-toned design. The watch came with a blue gradient dial with stick hour markers, giving it an even more striking appearance.
Rose Gold Ref 5980R-001 With Leather Strap
The first pink gold variant of the ref 5980 with a leather strap came in 2010. It featured 18k rose gold casing and bezel, paired with a brown leather strap. The strap of this timepiece also had a gold buckle designed to match the case material. The Ref 5980’s alligator strap had rectangular scales and was hand-stitched in matt dark brown.
The dial of this timepiece had a distinctive black-brown gradient, while the hour markers were gold with a luminescent coating. The gentle color gradation from black to chocolate brown played with light and shadow beautifully, giving the watch face a stunning appearance. The dial’s flyback chronograph adds a sporty splash of red to the overall aesthetic, making the 5980R one of the most sought-after variants of this collection because of its unique appearance.
White Gold Ref 5980/60G-001
Launched in 2024, the White Gold Ref 5980/60G-001 is the most recent version of the Patek 5980. It was released a few months after Patek Philippe discontinued all the remaining Nautilus 5980 watches in its catalog.
The timepiece was crafted from luxurious white gold, giving it quite an opulent appearance. The choice of white gold was probably a response to fans clamoring for a break from stainless steel, which has become a staple of Patek Philippe watches since the first Nautilus launched.
The case and bezel are characterized by contrasting polished and satin finishes. The dial color is one of the most unique attributes of this timepiece, especially since other variants tend to feature darker blue or black dials.
The case of the Ref 5980/60G-001 timepiece houses a captivating blue-gray opaline dial. The lighter, almost gray shade of this dial gives the timepiece a much sportier look compared to the other watches in the series.
Another element of this watch that gives it a sporty casual flair is the strap. The 5980/60G-001 came with a blue-gray calfskin leather strap embossed with a denim pattern. The color and design of this strap match the watch’s dial perfectly.
The strap also featured white hand-sewn stitches on the edges and was secured by a white gold Nautilus fold-over clasp. Those who order this timepiece will get an extra composite strap featuring a blue-gray fabric motif with white stitching.
Stainless Steel Ref 5980/1A-019 with a White Dial
The stainless steel variant of the Patek 5980 featuring a gorgeous all-white dial is a little-known version of this timepiece. That’s because it was only in production for a short time. Patek released this variant in 2012 and discontinued it in 2014. The white dial, with its hints of silver, soaks up the surrounding silvery tones of the case and bezel and pairs nicely with it.
The casing and bezel of this timepiece were made from stainless steel materials. It also featured an integrated stainless steel bracelet secured with folding double-deployment clasps. Despite the limited production run of this variant, it is still one of the most sought-after variants of this timepiece model.
Conclusion
The Nautilus remains one of Patek’s most remarkable collections, and its iconic status can be attributed to iconic models like the Patek 5980. The timepiece was innovative when it was introduced a little over a decade ago, and since its introduction, Patek has demonstrated a willingness to continually innovate by introducing several variants of this timepiece alongside new chronograph variants for other models as well.
The latest of these is the denim-themed Ref. 5980/60G, designed to appeal to more casual buyers. However, if you have a taste for something less sporty and more sophisticated, then the Rose Gold and Stainless Steel variants might be a better fit for you. They’re not in production anymore, and the Patek 5980 price can be quite exorbitant, but they’re still very much available on the secondary market.
